Myself, Martin Bevan and Rob Gaze travelled via Easy Jet from Bristol late on the 21st and then back to the same airport late on the 28th. We booked a Hire Car ( Seat Leon diesel ) through Europcar and stayed at the Hotel Meson Hueso in Trujillo. The total cost including a weeks car parking at Bristol airport was just under £300 each.
On arriving we picked the car up and being the nominated driver ( the other two nominated me ) I edged with trepidation out onto the roads. I had printed out directions via the AA and apart from one wrong turning we were soon on the main motorway to Extremadura. We had decided to drive close to the Embalso de Arrocampo ( junction 200 ) and spend the rest of the night trying to catch a few hours sleep in the car which we did at a services close to Almaraz. On waking very early we travelled the few miles to the reservoir in darkness where we could hear Nightingale and Savi's Warbler. As the darkness cleared the found both reservoirs clouded in low mist, not looking good at all.
However the Nightingale came out and showed itself and some movement began as the mist cleared. A grey Heron flew over followed by a few Night Herons, White Storks flew past and could be seen on their nests, Purple Herons glided pass and Corn Buntings could be heard. Our first Spotless Starlings were seen and our first raptor a Black Kite was seen surveying the scene.
Martin then spotted a Black Shouldered Kite on a distant pylon, a bird the three of us had high on our wish list. After watching it for awhile we decided to walk to get a better view, this was when the fun started. I think after the next two hours we had walked 20 yards, all three of us started calling birds, there were appearing from nowhere. Rob the scribe was having difficulty keeping up.
A Marsh Harrier appeared, Little Bitterns x 4 flew into the reeds, Kingfisher x 4 zipped past, Gull Billed Terns x 6 gracefully swopped by, Squacco Heron x 2, more Purple Heron x 18, more Night Heron x 14, Cattle Egrets x 14, White Storks were everywhere as were the Black Kites. We had our first and certainly not our last Crested Larks and the same with a Hoopoe. We also found our first Bee-Eater flying past.
On the reservoir Great Crested Grebes, Mallard, Coot and Moorhen were present.
We then finally got to walk nearer to the B S Kite which had obligingly come closer and stunning views were had. This had taken us into scrub and a woodland area which gave up yet more birds, Corn Buntings and Zitting Cistacola were everywhere, Cetti Warbler were seen and heard 25 in total. A flock of 25 Spanish Sparrows were feeding on a path. 2 Great Spotted Cuckoo's and one Cuckoo were observed. 2 Sardinian Warblers were seen carring food. Over the reservoir 2 Pallid Swifts amongst the other Hirundines was a nice find, a Common Sandpiper flew past at speed.
We the crossed the road to the other reservoir where Great Reed Warbler and Savi's Warbler were perched out in the open singing. Lesser Kestrel could now be seen hunting the open ground near by and fly overs included Cormorant and Whimbrel.
Then appearing from nowhere the sky was full of raptors Griffon Vultures x 15 and singles of Golden Eagle, Short Toed Eagle and Black Vulture.
One bird however was eluding us, the Purple Gallinule, we could hear it, we could see where it was pulling up reeds but it would not show itself.
After 6 hours of very intensive but enjoyable birding we decided we had better move on. Then walking back to the car a Purple Gallinule decided to climb to the top of a reed and our last target species was had.
Back onto the motorway to Trujillo when we got diverted onto some side roads through hillsides and dehesa. Rob was now sleeping and Martin nodding when I shouted Woodchat Shrike perched on a fence post, this being a lifer for myself and Rob. I pulled into a very conveinient lay-by and the three now very awake birders got out and another incredible few hours started.
The lay-by was signposted the Arroya de la Vid but this sign was noted at various places during the trip.
Straight away two Crag Martins were seen hawking for insects over the water, also our first Red Rumped Swallows, Serin x 2, Subalpine Warbler x 3, Orphean Warbler, Woodlark, Grey and White Wagtails. 2 Black Storks drifted over, one of only 2 Red Kites seen in the week.
And then we managed to find the bird Rob thought was mythical and kept a smile on his face all week a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker.
We also had our first albeit a very distant view of a Azure Winged Magpie ( we seen hundreds throughout the week ).
We then headed to Trujillo where we took nearly an hour to find the hotel, the old part of town is a maze of narrow streets. We finally booked into a spotlessly clean establishment, had a short break and then out to the Belen Plains, just 10 mins out of town.
Another very productive evening with numerous Great and Little Bustards, Southern Grey Shrikes x 2, Montagu Harriers x 7, another Black Shouldered Kite hovering, Wheatear x 2, lots of Calandra Larks, Little Owl but no Sandgrouse.
Back to the hotel for a well earned sleep with a days total of 89 birds, all our target birds for the day and more. Also a lot of lifers for us all.
Day 2.
We decide to travel to Montfrague and made good time and spent some time looking for raptors at Pena Falcon, where we had our first views of Egyptian Vulture, Rock Bunting and Blue Rock Thrush.
We then climbed up to the monastery where we found Black Redstart, Rock Bunting, Short Toed Eagle, Short Toed Treecreeper, Chough, Egyptian Vulture, Jay, Alpine Swift, Golden Eagle, Black Vulture, Red Rumped Swallow, Pergrine x 2 and Bee-Eater.
The best bird however Martin located perched on a tree on the cliff was a Spanish Imperial Eagle the first of two seen that day.
This is a great spot for raptors especially when a Black Vulture glides effortlessly just 20 yards or so right over your heads, an awesome sight.
We then went down to the bottom car park and a quick walk in the woodland where we found Nuthatch and Cirl Bunting.
Then onward to Portilla de Tietar to look for the Eagle Owl ( more hope than anything as the birds tend to show in the mornings and evenings ).
Lots more Griffons were found and a Turtle Dove was heard but much to Rob's annoyance would not show itself. We decided to go into the little hide to escape the sun for awhile. After a short while we all jumped up when a Owl was heard and frantic scanning of the opposite crag started. Martin finally found an Adult Eagle Owl perched under a tree, we all had a quick look and then the bird decided to take exception to a passing Griffon Vulture and flew at him and then flew further along the crag. More frantic scanning until Martin relocated the bird under another tree and superb views were had. Our scopes were also well used by other birders there, everyone was estatic.
We then headed back towards Trujillo and another look at the Belen Plains to finish the day off. Good views of the Steppe species were had but still could not locate any Sandgrouse.
Day 3.
We decided firstly to try the Zorita Plains where we encountered our first Whinchats and Martin picked up his only lifer that myself and Rob didn't need, a Roller, one of six seen. At least six Quail were heard but none showed themselves, a pattern to repeat itself throughout the trip. Another Marsh Harrier and 2 Gull Billed Terns were fly-overs. Hoopoe were now being seen on a regular basis and we had lost count of Corn Buntings. Red Legged Partridge x 6 were seen and also became a common sighting for the trips. Two more Black Winged Stilts were also observed. Woodchat Shrikes were also being seen at regular intervals and Zitting Cistacola's were seen doing display flights. Sandgrouse were also not found at this site.
We then decided to try the Embalse de Sierra Bravo. At the first pull in we had a quick scan we we found Red Crested Pochard, Little Ring Plover, Gull Billed Tern. We then decided to go for a quick walk to some nearby rocks where Martin had seen a bird flickering around. The bird was soon located and was instantly one of the favourites for the trip a stunning Black-Eared Wheatear, definitely a better bird in real life than in the field guides. The walk then continued for a few hours in searing heat Yellow Wagtail, Black Headed Gulls and Lapwing were firsts for the trip. More Black Winged Stilts, Gull Billed Terns, 2 Great Spotted Cuckoos being chased off by a Magpie, more Bee-Eaters and another Marsh Harrier this time a ringtail were the highlights.
We then headed for the close by paddyfields and had our biggest downer of the trip, the paddyfields were no more. They had been drained and were like a dust bowl and were being ploughed by the local farmers. The car had also changed colour from black to grey with all the dust.
We were no at a loss what to do, so a quick look at the map and the books ( we were using John Muddemann's guide and Where to Watch Birds in Southern & Western Spain ) we decided to go to the Embalse Garcia Solo.
This turned out to be longer than we thought and to be quite honest a bit of a dissappointment. The temperature was now very high and the water levels were down. Also there were not many spots where you could observe the water. Species found however were Subalpine and Sardinian Warblers, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Blue Rock Thrush, Jay< Azure-Winged Magpie, Little Egret, Little Ringed Plover, Crag Martin, Black Stork, Griffon Vulture and Red Rumped Swallow.
After some food in a picnic area under some trees we headed back and another go at the Belen Plains. The normal birds were observed but no Sandgrouse, can you see a recurring theme here.
A strange day which started well but ended with a bit of a damp squid.
Day 4.
The prevoius night we had decided in the hotel partaking in drinks of alcohol content to revisit Montfrague. In the morning Rob was told of a change of plan we were going to visit Sierra de Villeurcas, hopefully it was going to be cooler and more productive than yesterday.
As we got closer to our destination all we could see was a mist covering the mountains. We carried on though and started to climb the mountain road ( think of the Italian Job without the bus ) and pulled over at suitable looking stops. The first stop produced Thekla Lark, Woodchat Shrike, Serin and Sardinian Warbler.
Further up we stopped again and were rewarded with a Golden Oriole singing and after a short walk into the scrub and woodland got a sighting of a male Golden Oriole flying away into the mist. I mentioned to Rob for whom this was a lifer, don't except better views they can be a bitch to see.
Onward and upward again where we pulled in a large lay-by to have some breakfast. However as soon as we got out of the car a few Golden Orioles were heard singing again in the wood on the opposite side. Someone mentioned a quick walk to try and locate them. Some hours later still without food we arrived back at the car having walked to the top of the mountain. Boy was it worth it, we had seen at least 5 Golden Orioles, heard at least 10 more, had absolutely stunning views of 3 Hawfinch, a Cuckoo, a Pied Flycatcher, Rock Bunting, our only Robin of the trip, Sparrow Hawk, Cirl Bunting and Nightingale. And the mist had cleared.
We then travelled to the Cabanes Del Castillo which is ruined castle perched high on a crag. This isn't a long climb compared to Montfrague but it can be difficult in parts and I would recommend caution if you want to get to the castle itself. For us it was well worth it has we had fantastic views of 2 Black Wheatear, our first Booted Eagle, Blue Rock Thrush, Red Rumped Swallow, Black Redstart, Crag Martin, Short Toed Eagle, Egyptian Vulture, Chough, Blackcap and Southern Grey Shrike.
We then drove back to the hotel for a short break before hitting the Belen Plains again. We found our largest gathering of Great Bustards ( 18 ) so far and also found Little Grebe on one of the many ponds on the steppes. Also Bee-Eater, Hoopoe, Southern Grey Shrike, Little Bustards and the normal steppe birds. Yes you guessed it, no Sandgrouse.
Day 5.
We though we would start for a change at Belen again and yet again we failed on sandgrouse but picked up Great Spotted Cuckoo, Little Owl, Cuckoo, Montagu Harrier, both Bustards, and our first Short Toed Lark as well as the now normal Hoopoe, Calandra Lark, Corn Buntings etc.
Then we drove to the outskirts of Jacaicejo to look for Spectacled Warbler. A pair we duly found with a single Dartford Warbler. Both Shrike species were seen on the fences and overhead wires, 3 Great Spotted Cuckoos and a single Wheatear as well as lots of Azure Winged Magpies.
However the best views were of 9 Bee-Eaters perched on the wires. One decided to drop down on to the top of a small leafless tree and hawk for insects. From 8 forays he returned successful on 7 trips and giving us frame filling scope views.
We then carried on to Monfrague where we climbed to the monastery again and this time stayed for about 4 hours. No new birds were added but great views of many raptors kept us busy. The three Vultures, Booted Eagle, Short Toed Eagle were common. Golden Eagle and Spanish Imperial Eagle were both seen again. Bonelli's Eagle again eluded us.
A party of over 20 Brits ( on a walking holiday with birds as their main interest ) then turned up. Their guide knew the area well and gave us a well known site for Sandgrouse and we in turn told them about the Golden Orioles.
That evening we drove out to the site given to us by the guide Santa Marta de Magasca. We found our largest group of Great Bustards ( 23 ), 4 x Montagu Harrier, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Zitting Cistacola, Black Vulture, Black Wingd Stilt, Common Sandpiper, 3 x Griffon Vultures resting near a carcass.
Oh I nearly forgot seven Black Bellied Sandgrouse were seen but no Pin-Tailed
Day 6.
We went back to Santa Marta de Magasca to try for Pin-Tailed Sandgrouse but only managed to find one more Black-Bellied among the now familiar steppe species. Ringed Plover was a new bird for the trip as was Gadwell.
Onto Caceres and then to Monroy and on one patch drove on possibly the worst road in the world. Only one new bird was found a Garden Warbler but lots of Montagues Harrier were seen at regular intervals, another Booted Eagle, Rollers, Southern Grey Shrikes, another Common Sandpiper and Rock Buntings
Day 7.
Our last day started on Belen Plains where we the now daily birds like Lesser Kestrel, White Storks, Bee-Eaters, Hoopoes, Black Kite, Montagu Harrier, Great Spotted Cuckoos were seen again. It was then back to the hotel to check-out and begin the drive back to Madrid with suitable stops. We decided our first stop would be the Embalse de Arrocampo where we had started. When we arrived we found quite a strong wind had come up and made birding quite difficult. However birds found were Little Bittern x 1, Gull Billed Terns x 5, Purple heron x 7, Sand Martins, a Fly past Turtle Dove to keep Rob happy, Swallows, Black Kites, Zitting Cistacola, Common Sandpiper, a Great Reed Warbler on top of a reed singing and a Pallid Swift among others.
Finding the wind a bit too strong we decided to go to the Valdecanas de Tajor a few miles away on the other side of the motorway. Stopping first by the large bridge below the dam we heard and then found two more Golden Oriole, a Rock Bunting, Jay, Azure Winged Magpies and to top it all at least 80 Bee-eaters in the air together, an awesome sight as well as sound. Back into the car for a short drive into the wood where we saw another Golden Oriole ( who said they were hard to see ) and the had good flight views of two Egyptian Vultures and a Short Toed Eagle.
This proved to be our last site before the drive to the airport where three very tired but happy birders boarded the flight back to Bristol.
Total birds seen was around the 135 mark considering the debacle with the paddyfields we were very pleased with. Most of our target species we got with the notable exceptions of Bonelli's Eagle and Warbler. Rob got over 50 lifers, myself over 40 and Martin around the 20 mark. I haven't given details of every bird seen at every site, it would take to long but I hope this has given a taste of what can be found.
